A Travellerspoint blog

Sheki Silk Factory


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A visit to the silk factory was my favorite excursion at this point in my journey.
The plant was constructed in 1932 and much of the equipment has been in use since that time. They have some new German equipment purchased in the last few years.

The first step of the process is actually raising the silk worms and spinning the fine threads from the cocoons. Additionally, cotton is grown in southern Azerbaijan and shipped to this plant to create cotton thread. They also use wool yarn to create rugs, but this process must be completed at a different plant. I saw rugs being tied with wool and silk yarn, but did not see the wool being spun or died.

Creating Sheki Silk

Creating Sheki Silk


Worker in Silk Factory

Worker in Silk Factory

Spools for the Weft

Spools for the Weft

New Equipment in Silk Factory

New Equipment in Silk Factory


If you are really interested, there are more equipment pictures in the Photo Gallery

Sheki Cotton Bales

Sheki Cotton Bales

Preparing Cotton Roving 1

Preparing Cotton Roving 1


After silk is woven, fine silk scarves are produced one at a time.
Applying Wax Before Dyeing

Applying Wax Before Dyeing


Drying Process 3-001

Drying Process 3-001

Drying Process 3

Drying Process 3

Rugs are hand tied using both silk and wool yarn. Each rug is made on request and can take months to complete. The weavers can work any pattern. When they are through with one, they start another.
Weaving a Silk Rug

Weaving a Silk Rug


Weaving Rugs 4

Weaving Rugs 4

Weaving Rugs 3

Weaving Rugs 3

Weaving Rugs 2

Weaving Rugs 2

The factory stays prepared for emergencies.
Sheki Silk Fire Brigade

Sheki Silk Fire Brigade

In the shop, you could purchase finished products. Additionally, they ship finished silk fabric to other manufacturers.
In the Silk Shop

In the Silk Shop

Posted by pscotterly 22:22 Archived in Azerbaijan Comments (0)

On to Sheki


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We say goodbye to our hosts in Baku and head to Sheki - a historical town in the north central mountains and our first stop in the regions.
In Sheki, we stayed in a caravansary - a thousand-year-old building that on the silk route where camel trains had previously stopped.
Karavansary Doorway

Karavansary Doorway


Bazil Tye Jr at the Caravansary

Bazil Tye Jr at the Caravansary

The caravansary is just outside the walls of the palace of the Sheki Kahn. All the palace was built in the 17th century, within the walls are older buildings and further up the mountain is the oldest Christian church in this part of the world - in this Moslem nation, it is called an Albanian church because it dates to the time of Albanian rule of the area and you don't often hear the word Christian used.
Museum Mosque

Museum Mosque


Mountain Village Street

Mountain Village Street


Ancient Albanian Church 3

Ancient Albanian Church 3

I was asked if I wanted to go to the hamem - the traditional bathhouse that has been used for centuries before people had running water in their homes and often found throughout the villages. Of course, I said "yes!"
When we arrived, I discovered it was a garish spa that could have been on the cheap side of Las Vegas in a strip mall. I did not make my camera because I thought pictures would not be allowed. It was still a nice event with frolicking in a swimming pool with Azeri women who were terrified of the water, a great sauna, and then an invigorating scrub by the attendant.

Posted by pscotterly 20:14 Archived in Azerbaijan Comments (0)

Bazaars


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There is nothing like a bazaar in the United States. The first one I ever saw a few years ago, confused and even frightened me. The more bazaars I see, the more I wish they could replace US strip malls and grocery stores. Maybe I should shop at the Mile High flea market – except that is not a brief walk away – not even a convenient metro ride.
Even the hardware and office supply stores are little stalls or shops at the bazaar.

Woman on Stoop

Woman on Stoop


Butcher Shop and Kebob Stand

Butcher Shop and Kebob Stand

Bus Stop at the Bazaar

Bus Stop at the Bazaar

Masalli Bazaar

Masalli Bazaar

Bazaar Vendors

Bazaar Vendors

Herb and Chick Stand

Herb and Chick Stand


Fresh

Fresh


Citrus Sellers

Citrus Sellers


Bazaar at the End of the Day

Bazaar at the End of the Day


Ramains of the Day

Ramains of the Day

One of my traveling companions had mentioned they were hoping to buy an European style toilet paper holder with the little metal flap that hangs over the paper roll to keep their cat from scratching at the toilet paper.
I saw a hardware store in the Masalli bazaar, so I located my friend for a "look-see." Of course we cannot speak Azeri and the shopkeepers could not speak English. I did know the word taulet so they showed us plungers, cleaners, and pull chains. Eventually, I stood as if over an Asian toilet trough and mimed as if pulling and tearing toilet paper. I stopped myself in time before demonstrating its use. All the shopkeepers laughed and retrieved the exact item we wanted.
Buying a TP Holder

Buying a TP Holder

There was only one time I had had enough of the bazaar.
We had just left the cabins outside of Masalli, Azerbaijan for the four hour van ride to the airport in Baku for the three hour plane ride to Moscow. After seven days in the cabin and 15 days in Azerbaijan, I must admit I was ready for a bit of 21st Century and some alone time with the internet. We went only the 3 kilometers to the heart of Masalli when the van stops at the bazaar. None of the English speakers seem to know what is happening.
"Ten maybe fifteen minutes at the Bazaar. No More!" we are told by our hosts. Seems that all the Baku residents wanted to buy fresh vegetables to take home. Forty minutes later the Americans are still sitting on the van, and the hosts and driver are not in sight. Eventually, they return laden with bags of cucumbers and tomatoes. The driver is even carrying an egg flat with about four dozen eggs – which he tries to put on the luggage rack above one of our seats. If you knew how this van careened and jolted, you would understand why we insisted he put it on the seat next to him! I am afraid we really showed our Western nature at this point of the journey.

Posted by pscotterly 20:14 Archived in Azerbaijan Comments (0)

Places Visited in Baku, Azerbaijan


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The National Monument is a beautiful sculpture garden of people selected by the government as national heroes - including the president who is attributed to creating co-existence with Armenia, Russia, and other nations after the fall of the USSR. (Although he and his son, the current president, are often to be considered by the international media to be quite corrupt, all who I asked revere what they have accomplished and their pictures are throughout the country.)
This is NOT the former president, but I thought this gent was much more attractive.
Typical Memorial Sculpture 5-25-2013 11-06-45 PM

Typical Memorial Sculpture 5-25-2013 11-06-45 PM


Kitty in the Memorial Garden 5-25-2013 11-01-01 PM

Kitty in the Memorial Garden 5-25-2013 11-01-01 PM


Flowers on the President's Tomb 5-25-2013 10-57-07 PM

Flowers on the President's Tomb 5-25-2013 10-57-07 PM


A separate park high on a hill overlooking the bay and near the eternal flame, the January 10 Memorial commemorates all those who were massacred by the Russians in 1992. Each body that could be recovered is buried here with an engraved picture on the stone (this is common throughout all the modern cemeteries I visited). When the body could not be located, the person is commemorated with their name and picture on the stone. Some tombs are marked unknown without pictures. We also placed flowers at this memorial.
Walkway to Eternal Flame 5-25-2013 11-28-50 PM

Walkway to Eternal Flame 5-25-2013 11-28-50 PM

January 10 1992 Memorial 5-25-2013 11-41-22 PM

January 10 1992 Memorial 5-25-2013 11-41-22 PM


Flag and Flame 5-25-2013 11-26-20 PM

Flag and Flame 5-25-2013 11-26-20 PM

Just some shots around Baku.
Inger  Schmidt Exhibit

Inger Schmidt Exhibit


Lighting in Shopping Area of Fountain Square

Lighting in Shopping Area of Fountain Square


Turkish Mosque 5-25-2013 11-26-31 PM

Turkish Mosque 5-25-2013 11-26-31 PM


Baku Skyline 5-25-2013 11-43-40 PM

Baku Skyline 5-25-2013 11-43-40 PM

Look for some other photos in the photo gallery.

Posted by pscotterly 19:43 Archived in Azerbaijan Comments (0)

A Day in the Region

sunny

After a 40 minute ride in our Mercedes van, we arrived at Salmaz' parent's compound. Here, the compounds are surrounded by hedgerows and wire fences more frequently than by high stone walls. Within each compound is a good-sized house, a well, a sheep shed, a chicken coop, a small barn, and the animals and fowl housed in them.
Village Gullatapa Country House Yard

Village Gullatapa Country House Yard


Daddy and Mama

Daddy and Mama


We were welcomed by Salmaz' parents with tea in a very large room with windows along three sides and three or four sleeping room/parlors off it. At the end was a kitchen L where we were shown how to cook plov – the national dish or layers of rice and chicken. They use a hot plate for cooking and a large propane tank with a ring on top that is called an oven when translated to English. They put a large Dutch oven on top of the ring for baking and roasting.
After this demonstration, we walked through the village about 2 kilometers to Salmaz' husband's sister's home. On the way, we met some ladies getting off the little inter-village bus. They carried bundles, baskets, or boxes on their heads of products they had bought in a larger town.
Heading Home from Shopping

Heading Home from Shopping


We also saw another woman washing bed linen in the river. The mattresses, quilts, and pillows are uncarded sheep fleece stuffed in cotton covers.
Washing Bed Linen

Washing Bed Linen

In this compound the grandparents (she was 58) lived with at least two adult children and their children. Here, we were shown how to make the traditional bread in the tandoori. The tandoori is a pottery cone with an open top and a small hole at the base and completely encased in a thick layer of mud and straw. (On the road, I had often seen cars with up to four tandoori on the roof and one on the trunk being delivered somewhere. Although they look like they should last forever, enough new ones must be needed to have seen so many being delivered somewhere.)
First she laid a fire with cow dung and wood on the floor of the tandoori. When the fire turned to embers, she washed the flattened dough with thin yogurt- and stuck it to the walls of the fire hot tandoori – all with her bare hands in the shed with a mud floor. After 15 minutes or so, she put on a tattered oven mitt and removed the baked loaves. She makes at least 10 loaves of bread every other day for the people in the compound.
Preparing the Tandoori

Preparing the Tandoori


Bread on Tandoori Walls

Bread on Tandoori Walls


Baking Bread

Baking Bread


Removing Bread

Removing Bread


Bread's Ready

Bread's Ready


After checking out her garden, we then sat down at a large outside table to a fine meal of fresh bread, homemade cheese and yogurt, and cucumbers and tomatoes direct from the garden.
Women of the Compound

Women of the Compound

Soon it was time to get a hug with cheek kiss from the women and a handshake from the women and walk to the next village. This was a six kilometer ( I am sure it was further!) on a stone road over the hills to visit another relative.
After about an hour on the road, we saw the village in the distance.
Village in the Distance

Village in the Distance


Some of the group straggled and struggled. Some of us walked ahead. Old Ladas would approach and wonder why some Americans were walking down the village road. We would gesture and smile that we were okay and an Azerbaijani was following us. At some point some of the stragglers refused to struggle more and Salmaz called her cousin to come and pick them up.
After almost two hours a car approached us, stopped crossways in the road in front of us, got out and crossed his arms in an X, and shook his head "No." It seemed we should go no further. Well, I was certainly puzzled. I walked back to find Salmaz. This was one of her cousins and she had called him to come and pick us up to take us to his house.
This was truly a village in the remote hills of Azerbaijan. People mined coal by hand and sold it. There were no stores. They had a fairly new school. In the home of our host lived several generations. It was the compound of a farmer, his son was a cabinet maker, one of the grandsons was the IT teacher at the school (however, they had no internet access.), and his wife was the English teacher. She was very excited to have visitors so that she could spend the afternoon speaking English. She wants desperately to "go to America," and even the aunties and mother-in-law asked me to help her get to America. She has never lived anywhere except in this compound and one other small village except for the years she was in university in a city about 40 kilometers away with a population of about 40,000. I know she is still dreaming that one of us will be able to help her and her husband get to America.
Colorful

Colorful


Surprise! More tea, tandoori bread, cucumbers and tomatoes with fresh butter and yogurt. Because of the coal the spring water tastes and smells like kerosene. No one could understand why we could not drink it.
Take Our Picture

Take Our Picture


Mother and Children

Mother and Children


A Man of the Compound

A Man of the Compound


Because everyone has cell phones, we were eventually notified that we were late for dinner at Salmaz' parents' house. We were told we would have a lorry to drive us back. Soon an old farm lorry with four-foot-high wood sides pulled up. A hand-made wooden ladder was brought from the house so we could climb in the lorry – and off we went back to Mother and Daddy's.
All Aboard for Gullatapa

All Aboard for Gullatapa


I can't even begin to describe how narrow, steep, rocky, and sloping this road is. I am sure I have no pictures to illustrate it. We were followed by one of the young cousins on his white galloping mare, who was followed by her new foal. For the next 8 kilometers school boys yelled and waved, shepherds stopped their flocks, and old women gaped to see a lorry full of 10 Americans going along the road.
Waiting To Pass

Waiting To Pass


Geese_and_..tter_Scurry.jpg

Not Everyone Enjoyed the Ride

Not Everyone Enjoyed the Ride


Everybody Out

Everybody Out


Some of the bunch had a wee bit of a panic, but we arrived intact to eat our plov with more cucumbers, tomatoes, cheese, yogurt, and tandoori bread.
Waiting for Another Meal

Waiting for Another Meal


Serving Plov

Serving Plov


As we were finally loading into our Mercedes van to return to the cabins, down the road came another lorry with twice as many Azerbaijanis as ours had held Americans, so I guess this is the standard mode of transportation for the multi-generational compounds.

Posted by pscotterly 19:53 Archived in Azerbaijan Comments (0)

Beautiful Baku


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I did not know what to expect in Baku. I was so surprised about how beautiful it is. The contrast between the business/upscale shopping/entertainment area where the everyday people live is striking.

New and Old 5-25-2013 11-21-16 PM

New and Old 5-25-2013 11-21-16 PM


Side Street in My District

Side Street in My District

They have done a great deal of restoration to the Inner City - the walled area of 12th century city- and in the downtown area, along the sea, and the government area. The average person (and all of our homestays) were in apartment complexes or homes in urban Baku or outlying suburbs. My host is a medical doctor and many were teachers and other professionals.
Flame Buildings 5-25-2013 11-21-39 PM

Flame Buildings 5-25-2013 11-21-39 PM


My Host's Apartment Building

My Host's Apartment Building


Inner City Scene 5-26-2013 3-22-40 AM

Inner City Scene 5-26-2013 3-22-40 AM


Apartment Wall 5-26-2013 3-20-35 AM

Apartment Wall 5-26-2013 3-20-35 AM

The National Monument is a beautiful sculpture garden of people selected by the government as national heroes - including the president who is attributed to creating co-existence with Armenia, Russia, and other nations after the collapse of the USSR. (Although he and his son, the current president, are often considered quite corrupt by the international media and historians, every person on the street I asked revere what they have accomplished and their pictures are throughout the country.)

Flowers on the President's Tomb 5-25-2013 10-57-07 PM

Flowers on the President's Tomb 5-25-2013 10-57-07 PM


Flag and Flame 5-25-2013 11-26-20 PM

Flag and Flame 5-25-2013 11-26-20 PM

Fountain Square is a popular shopping and meeting point.
Fountain Square 3

Fountain Square 3


Bench in Fountain Square

Bench in Fountain Square


And wherever I go, children and youth want to talk English and have their picture taken with the Americans.
Friends on the Fountain Plaza

Friends on the Fountain Plaza

Posted by pscotterly 20:53 Archived in Azerbaijan Comments (0)

Azerbaijani Wedding Party

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What an event!
The Friendship Force group was honored to attend and have the opportunity to join in the festivities.
The wedding celebration is quite similar to how it is celebrated in Albania:
First there is a large engagement party
Second there is a celebration called the "Bride's Wedding - this is what we attended.
Third there is a celebration called the "Groom's Wedding." This is generally held the week following the Bride's Wedding. There is some kind of ritual where the groom arrives and takes the bride from her father's home.

There is NO religious ceremony or service. The information is provided to the imam so the marriage is registered in the mosque, but the bride and groom don't have to be present. The marriage must also be registered in some city office.

The wedding parties are generally held in a special hall, which generally caters to such events.

The music and singing are VERY loud. I thought the band was stupendous, but some local folks commented that the singers were not the best. It was all national music, but some other couples choose to have popular, European, or American music.
What a Band

What a Band


In the Entrance Lobby

In the Entrance Lobby


The quantity and number of courses at an Azerbaijan restaurant is astounding. It absolutely never stops. We are constantly reminded that folks from USA are among the most overweight, but I don't think anyone has thought to include Azerbaijanis into the data.
Food Never Stops

Food Never Stops


The place settings include about 4 plates and 3 glasses. When a female is seated, the waiter removes the stemmed shot glass for vodka, but leaves it for the men. Some of the Americans insisted on alcohol and one of the women at my table insisted on a vodka shot glass. I did as the locals did and drank water and tea.
Videographers constantly circle the room filming everyone and projecting it on 8 big screens around the hall. You get so accustomed to them that you ignore them and will probably be caught with a pickle in your mouth - or something worse.
Eat a Pickle

Eat a Pickle

The bride and groom can wear any color dress and suit at the engagement party and Bride's Wedding. She wore red and he wore blue. At the groom's wedding, she wears white and he wears either black or white.
Bride_and_Groom.jpgBride and Groom Slow Dance

Bride and Groom Slow Dance


The high point of the wedding party is the traditional dancing. The family starts the traditional dance. On the next songs, women in the family will continue to dance in one or more circles and the men watch and eat. Gradually, there will be circles for men and circles for women. Only occasionally, is a woman included in a circle of unknown men- except, of course, for a couple of USA women who charged themselves into circles and danced like they were at a 1980 disco. (Not me! I get so disgruntled when these crazy old American women have to show other nations "how women can really be.")
Dance of the Family

Dance of the Family


Let the Dancing Begin

Let the Dancing Begin


Country Lady City Lady

Country Lady City Lady


Eventually, the men begin dancing circles and compete with one another. I could not get very good photos, so go to You Tube and search for Azerbaijan Wedding Dance to get a better idea of the fun.
Men Begin to Dance

Men Begin to Dance


Men Get Livlier

Men Get Livlier


Take Turns in the Center

Take Turns in the Center


No Stopping Now

No Stopping Now


Song After Song

Song After Song

Before the wedding party, I visited a Baku salon with my host's daughter, Nurana.
Nurana at the Nail Salon

Nurana at the Nail Salon


Paula at the Nail Salon

Paula at the Nail Salon


My host Sevda was quite excited about the party.
Sevda and Paula Ready for the Party

Sevda and Paula Ready for the Party


Once there, she didn't seem to have much fun. I only got her to dance once. Her feet hurt from tight high heeled shoes.
Sevda After the Party

Sevda After the Party

Later that night at her apartment 8 of us women between the ages of 18 months to 68 years danced until almost 1 AM to traditional music. I guess she was more comfortable in her housecoat with familiar women friends.

Posted by pscotterly 11:41 Archived in Azerbaijan Comments (0)

Leaving Lahic, Azerbaijan


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Before coming to Azerbaijan, I saw a video on You Tube titled On the Road to Lahic.
I had the same experience leaving Lahic. We careened along the mountain road in our Lada when around the curve the sheep appeared. I rolled my side window to take a picture. My driver frantically yelled "Dog! Dog! Dog!" He never says a word in English, so I promptly rolled up my window, but couldn't imagine ever being afraid of any border collie I had ever seen herding sheep. Eventually, the shepherd on horseback appeared with 5 huge wolf hound type dogs. The driver promptly rolled up his window. I must admit they did not very friendly - nothing like my grandson Alan's sweet Torrey who continued to befriend wheelchairs long after Alan had passed.

There had to be hundreds of sheep in this herd - maybe over a thousand. Probably being herded up the mountain from a winter to summer meadow. Several herders were on horseback. The last thing - person or sheep- in the parade was a small boy of not more than 10 years ensuring not a sheep was slower than he.

Leaving Lahic 5-25-2013 2-51-24 AM

Leaving Lahic 5-25-2013 2-51-24 AM

Lada in Sheep 5-25-2013 2-51-32 AM

Lada in Sheep 5-25-2013 2-51-32 AM

Posted by pscotterly 10:43 Archived in Azerbaijan Comments (0)

Lahic Cemetaries

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Cemetary in Lahij 5-23-2013 1-19-15 AM

Cemetary in Lahij 5-23-2013 1-19-15 AM


Lehij Cemetary Scene 5-24-2013 9-23-24 PM

Lehij Cemetary Scene 5-24-2013 9-23-24 PM


Monument 5-24-2013 9-29-06 PM

Monument 5-24-2013 9-29-06 PM


More Wildflowers 5-24-2013 9-32-33 PM

More Wildflowers 5-24-2013 9-32-33 PM


Rampant Wildflowers 5-24-2013 9-43-38 PM

Rampant Wildflowers 5-24-2013 9-43-38 PM


Recent Memorial Decoration  5-24-2013 9-39-18 PM

Recent Memorial Decoration 5-24-2013 9-39-18 PM


Resting Amid the Flowers 5-24-2013 9-24-13 PM

Resting Amid the Flowers 5-24-2013 9-24-13 PM


Transport Path in Cemetary 5-24-2013 9-43-51 PM

Transport Path in Cemetary 5-24-2013 9-43-51 PM


Cannot Get Enough Views 5-23-2013 10-48-28 PM

Cannot Get Enough Views 5-23-2013 10-48-28 PM


Cemetary in Lahij 5-23-2013 1-19-15 AM

Cemetary in Lahij 5-23-2013 1-19-15 AM


Birds Drinking in the Cemetary 5-24-2013 9-24-33 PM

Birds Drinking in the Cemetary 5-24-2013 9-24-33 PM

Posted by pscotterly 04:44 Archived in Azerbaijan Comments (0)

Scenes Around Lahic

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Unpaved Path 5-23-2013 10-48-12 PM 9-25 AM

Unpaved Path 5-23-2013 10-48-12 PM 9-25 AM

The Coppersmith's Shop 5-23-2013 1-01-01 AM

The Coppersmith's Shop 5-23-2013 1-01-01 AM


Call to Prayer 5-22-2013 11-44-29 PM

Call to Prayer 5-22-2013 11-44-29 PM

Castle Remains over Lahic 5-23-2013 12-23-51 AM

Castle Remains over Lahic 5-23-2013 12-23-51 AM

Cow Pasture in Town 5-23-2013 1-22-25 AM

Cow Pasture in Town 5-23-2013 1-22-25 AM

Dressing Room in the Bathhouse 5-23-2013 4-59-57 AM

Dressing Room in the Bathhouse 5-23-2013 4-59-57 AM

Entrance to the Hamami 5-23-2013 4-13 AM 5-23-2013 4-52-13 AM

Entrance to the Hamami 5-23-2013 4-13 AM 5-23-2013 4-52-13 AM


This is misspelled - should be hamam! Only open onMon and Fri for women. Instead, my hostess built a big fire in her stove which was built under a hot water tank. After two hours we had boiling hot water for a shower.
DSC02026-001

DSC02026-001

Fleece for a Lahic Mattress 5-23-2013 4-41-34 AM

Fleece for a Lahic Mattress 5-23-2013 4-41-34 AM


After washing and carding, this fleece will be used for a mattress, quilt or pillow. When a couple becomes engaged, she makes him a new mattress as a gift.
Mosque and Public Spring 5-22-2013 11-44-14 PM

Mosque and Public Spring 5-22-2013 11-44-14 PM


All mosques require a source of water for washing. Additionally, there are public taps all over town in the same historic spots as when people did not have individual tap water. I assumed all the public taps were springs. Then on a walk, I saw this building and was told it was the city cistern that was the source of all the water in Lahic. It had been built with assistance from Japan.
Source of All the Spring Water 5-23-2013 11-01-50 PM

Source of All the Spring Water 5-23-2013 11-01-50 PM


Most of the public taps and those in people's courtyards run constantly even though they have closeable spigots.
My guide said, "Water is free."
There does not seem to be any drought fears as we have in Colorado where we have been limited to twice a week watering for ten minutes twice a day!
I was also told there was no fear of running out of fire wood even though that is the only source of heat in small stoves in several rooms in each house.
Lahic Street Scene 5-23-2013 12-07-20 AM

Lahic Street Scene 5-23-2013 12-07-20 AM


Here Come the Cows 5-24-2013 10-28-58 PM

Here Come the Cows 5-24-2013 10-28-58 PM


There Go the Cows 5-24-2013 10-29-38 PM

There Go the Cows 5-24-2013 10-29-38 PM

Posted by pscotterly 04:29 Archived in Azerbaijan Comments (0)

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